Suzuk-E 

1987 Suzuki RM125 Conversion - Part 8 ...

April 2009

 


Part #7 dealt with paint, new batteries, a bit of welding to re-size the Bat-Framing and the physical replacement of the twin DC fans with a 120Vac Blower.

Since March 12th onward about all I've been doing is maple syrup & firewood and renovating the building immediately adjacent to the foundry area... (when done this will be a 36 by 22ft dedicated fab-shop specifically to accommodate Quad sized ATV's)

Since I won't have time to post yet another page on Maple Syrup production the video below is the only account of the 2009 season...

 

 

 

 

 

 

To continue along with the paint theme I opted to draft some simple stencils to do the lettering.

The image to the right is the tool path that was machined into a sheet of thin self adhesive plastic shelf liner.

The mill was set to 25 Inches per minute feed rate running a 0.020" cutter set to a depth of 0.030". 

The cut is a little ragged but certainly passable... A sincere thanks to Jeff at Thorsgaard Foundry for giving me the idea to re-try vinyl cutting with the CNC.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The stencils still have plenty of life in them, and may be re-used on other projects, though I think that I'll have to apply some brush-on rubber cement to get the same sticky-ness.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The images below are the result in spite of the tired and literally worn-out Badger Air-brush that went to it's grave knowing that this is the last thing it will ever paint... As an aside, anybody with suggestions for a cheap, but utile air-brush for doing work not much more complex than this, please drop me a line.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Out of the blue we lucked into a most welcome Mid-March thaw...

Here the Suzuk-E reposes in warm sunshine while she sucks at the teet of the grid in anticipation of another pounding... 

Pounding may be less than accurate, as the pulley drive mechanism is working out less than ideally.

The motor similarly is in desperate need of active cooling as it has plenty of snot to squeal the belt, but a goodly portion of that enthusiasm is realized in a significant measure of heat (the installation of an inverter to drive the blower is a top priority as the ambient temps slowly break double digits in the positive Celsius.)

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Beyond the complaints above, the bike handles very nicely, seems well balanced and stops on a dime.

I'm not getting too worked-up about any GPS runs until the fields dry-up more...

Another consideration is to take the angle grinder to both the rear & front tires to reduce a portion of the drag they must be imposing due to the aggressive tread pattern they sport.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Somehow we lost our household iron, so the result was yet another capital expenditure ... like 10 bucks for this fine Lancaster, which is NEVER to leave theworkshop.ca.

If I have an image of an iron, you know that I'm making a PCB (printed circuit brd)...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The schematic below is to a dual-purpose circuit that features a 555 timer based PWM (Pulse Width Modulator) that drives the 3.5V LED's with 12Vdc more efficiently than the LM7805 based Voltage regulator that I'd previously been using... The objective criteria that I assessed the improvement in efficiency, is that the LEDs do light (and can have their intensity varied) with no measurable heat generation as compared to the "Coleman Stove" that the LM7805 was (even with a heat sink).

 

Image saved at 200dpi for a local copy right click image and select, "save as" or "print".

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The secondary portion of the circuit is a serial string of three 15V zener diodes that effectively creates a voltage offset of 45Vdc, while a single 10K resistor expands the scale of a 1ma 85 ohm analog meter to accommodate a range of deflection that should equate to 10V or 45Vdc to 55Vdc.

The theory of this passive string is based on the writings of R. Fechter, and I did get him to review so that I didn't mis-understand the idea... But it has not been tested to this point so regard with caution... If the execution is flawed it is a reflection on my interpretation of the instructions, R. did point out a glaring flaw in my logic on how I initially was going to sense the current draw, I think the above will work...

 

 

 

The PCB layout listed to the right is the execution of the schematic shown above...

Both Sch & PCB were created in PCBExpress...

Both will be available for down-load after all testing is done and verified to be fully functional.

Though I have enough confidence in the design to commit it to copper.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Etched and drilled...

Only one brd is needed but if the LED driver works out, the Electro-Quad will need it as well.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The PCB is populated with 100% recycled parts, even the screw-down header.... 

No, the Zener Diodes are new and I think I ordered them with the last batch of Blank copper brds... regardless I think they are like 20 cents each...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you're 555 saavy, the inverted diode pair PWM is a neat trick that was pilfered from Tony Van Roon's website and modified largely to accommodate the parts that were closest at hand. Actually The brunt of 555 driver is Tony's...

 

 

 

Let's not quibble about who designed what, Mr. Van Roon has never been abused by the hands of theworkshop.ca and the proof of his contribution is visible to the left.

The 50K Pot offers say 20 to 80% duty cycle on the gate of the FET and is set slightly below 50% with good illumination as viewed in daylight.

The remainder of the 55 to 60% of the duty cycle could be dialed in for either larger arrays of LEDs or higher mcd units in place of the generics currently installed. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Yet again, this project closes without being complete... So in no particular order, install and wire 120Vac Inverter to drive blower, wire-in control panel for Volt/Amp reading off a single meter, replace 2 1/2" dia drive pulley with 3" or 3 1/2" pulley, install and wire LED driver brd, tame the knobby tires and by the time all that gets done something else will need to be addressed...

And some moving pictures to help fill in any gaps...

 

 

 

 

 

 


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